Chiang Mai is the city that surprised us. We arrived expecting a smaller, quieter version of Bangkok and instead found somewhere with its own rhythm, its own food and a mountain on the doorstep. We visited with our kids while living on Koh Phangan, making time for temples, markets and a lot of noodle lunches, and it is the place in Thailand we still talk about most.

Why we love Chiang Mai

The scale is the first thing. The historic centre is a square mile surrounded by a moat, and you can cross it on foot in twenty minutes. That changes everything about how a day feels. Nothing is a production. You walk out, you find a temple, you get coffee, you eat.

The north also has its own identity. The food is different from Bangkok, spicier and more herbal, with a whole repertoire of dishes you will not find properly cooked anywhere else. The Lanna heritage shows up in the temples, the woodwork and the festivals. And the mountains are close enough that you can be in a pine forest before lunch.

It is cooler than the south too, at least between November and February, and the air feels easier. Families settle here fast.

What to see and do

Start inside the moat. Wat Chedi Luang, with its enormous crumbling stupa, and Wat Phra Singh, the city's most revered temple, are both walking distance from almost anywhere in the Old City. Wat Chiang Man is the oldest of them and much quieter.

Then get out of town. Doi Suthep, the mountain overlooking the city, has the famous Wat Phra That Doi Suthep near the summit, reached by a long staircase flanked by naga serpents. Go early, before the tour buses, and the views over the whole valley are worth the climb.

Beyond that, the region offers elephant visits, waterfalls in the rainy season and cooking schools. If you want to see elephants, research each operator's welfare practices rather than relying on the word "sanctuary"; our Chiang Mai with kids guide explains what we look for. If you only do one organised activity, a cooking class is a good choice, and many include a market visit.

The Sunday Walking Street is the week's big event. The Old City closes to traffic and fills with food stalls, crafts and music from late afternoon until well after dark.

Where to eat and drink

Khao soi is the dish to build a trip around. It is a coconut curry broth with egg noodles and a tangle of crisp noodles on top, and every northern Thai cook has their own version. We ate it constantly and never had the same bowl twice.

Also look for sai ua, the herby northern sausage, nam prik dips with vegetables, and khao man gai from the little shops that sell nothing else. The night markets and the food courts attached to them are the easiest places to eat well with children, because everyone picks their own thing.

Coffee culture here is serious. Northern Thailand grows good beans, and the Old City and Nimman areas are full of cafés that would not look out of place in Copenhagen. Filter, espresso, iced with palm sugar, all done properly.

When to go and how to get around

November to February is the season most people choose. Cool, dry, clear. March and April get very hot, and the burning season can bring heavy smoke, so check the air quality if you are travelling then. The rainy months are green, cheap and often beautiful, with short afternoon downpours rather than endless rain.

Flights from Bangkok take just over an hour. Getting around the city means red songthaews, which are shared pickup trucks with benches in the back. You flag one, say where you are going, and pay a small fare. Grab works well too. For temples outside town, hiring a driver for a day is easier than renting a scooter with kids.

Our Chiang Mai guides