Copenhagen is the city where we grew up, and it is still one of our favourite places to eat and wander. Its canals, bicycle streets and neighbourhood cafés are as much a part of the appeal as the New Nordic restaurants that made it famous. If you’re visiting with children, start with our Tivoli Gardens with kids guide.
Why we love Copenhagen
We were born and raised here, so this city is home first and a destination second. That means we know it in the unglamorous ways too, the grey February afternoons and the bike traffic, and we love it regardless. What keeps surprising visitors is how easy Copenhagen makes everything feel, from getting around to eating well to just sitting outside with a coffee while the kids run loose.
What to see and do
Copenhagen is built for wandering, and the best plan is often to pick a neighbourhood and let it unfold. The water, the bikes and the low skyline give the city a relaxed rhythm you feel within an hour.
- Nyhavn, the postcard row of coloured houses along the old canal, best early before the crowds.
- Tivoli Gardens, the old amusement park in the centre of town, which we cover in full in our Tivoli Gardens with kids guide.
- The Little Mermaid and the waterfront walk up to Kastellet, the star-shaped old fortress.
- Christianshavn and Christiania, for canals, houseboats and a slice of counterculture.
- Rundetaarn, the round tower with a spiral ramp instead of stairs and a fine view at the top.
- Torvehallerne, the glass food halls near Nørreport, perfect for a grazing lunch.
Where to eat and drink
This is the part of Copenhagen we're proudest of. The New Nordic wave put the city on the map, but day to day it's just as much about good bakeries, casual neighbourhood restaurants and wine bars that don't take themselves too seriously. You can eat very well at almost any price. We keep a running list in our best places to eat in Copenhagen guide, and for something sweet we always send people to the old cake house we wrote about in best cake in Copenhagen.
When to go and how to get around
Summer is the obvious choice, when the light lingers late and everyone spills outside, but late spring and early autumn are quieter and just as pleasant. Winter is cold and dark, though it has its own charm and far fewer tourists. Getting around is easy. Most locals bike, and renting one is the fastest way to feel like you belong. The metro, S-trains and buses cover everything else, and the centre is small enough to cross on foot.