We lived in Dublin for years, and it remains a city we love returning to. Its centre is easy to explore on foot, with museums, historic streets, pubs and a wide range of places to eat close together. This guide is a starting point for our more detailed Dublin articles. If you are venturing beyond the capital, our road trip in Ireland covers where we went next.

Why we love Dublin

We lived here for years, long enough to stop seeing it as a postcard and start knowing it like home. Dublin is friendly in a way that catches people off guard, the kind of city where a stranger talks to you at the bar and you leave with a recommendation. It's small, scrappy in places and never short of a good meal or a good pint.

What to see and do

Most of what you'll want sits within an easy walk of the centre, which makes Dublin a great city to explore on foot. Give yourself a couple of days and pace it.

  • Trinity College and the Book of Kells in the Old Library, the classic first stop.
  • The Guinness Storehouse, for better or worse still the most visited attraction in the city.
  • Kilmainham Gaol, a moving look at Irish history that's worth booking ahead.
  • St Stephen's Green and the Georgian streets around it for a calm wander.
  • Temple Bar for the cobbles and the music, even if you only pass through.
  • Phoenix Park, one of the largest walled city parks in Europe and home to a herd of deer.

Where to eat and drink

Dublin's food scene is one of the reasons we return. We've written separate guides to the parts we know best, including casual meals, breakfast and brunch, and our favourite people-watching coffee shops. For something to take home, browse our Irish craft and design shop guide.

Where to stay: For a central base, we like Dublin 2 near Grafton Street and St Stephen's Green, or Dublin 1 close to the Liffey. Compare current prices and transport links for your dates.

When to go and how to get around

Dublin is at its best from late spring to early autumn, when the days are long and the pub gardens fill up, though it's a year-round city and the weather is mild even in winter. Rain can arrive fast, so pack a layer. Getting around is simple. The centre is walkable, the Luas trams and buses cover the rest, and the airport bus runs straight into town. Most visitors never need a car unless they're leaving the city.

Guides to Dublin